Thursday, August 28, 2008

Germany, Austria, Switzerland - Oh My!

Grab your coffee and settle yourself in for one of my mega-posts... I wish I could narrow down the photos to make this shorter, but at the same time, I wish I could post all 500 of them! Oh, well. Away we go... to Munich, Germany!
Though Munich is quite a big city (well over 1 million people), its historic centre is compact, walkable, and lovely. The main square is Marienplatz, with its "New" town hall which doesn't actually look NEW at all!
It has a really cool glockenspiel clock that jousts a few times a day - all the tourists (and some locals too!) stop to watch the mini-show. There are plenty of churches in the old town - this one, Frauenkirche has massive twin domes and is sort of an icon of the city. We considered climbing up one of the towers, but decided instead to climb to the top of St Peter's Church, just a few blocks away.
The view was gorgeous! Notice the orange-red roofs... totally characteristic of this part of Germany.

The inside of St Peters... We also decided to take a walk outside the city centre (3 miles) to Nymphenburg Palace. It is an impressive summer palace with a hunting lodge, coach museum, and a huge park! We focused on the park, walking through fields, woods, and by ponds with huge fish in them!


We also enjoyed a nice long walk in the English Garden - the largest park on the European continent AND it was designed by an American! Towards the middle of the park is a giant Chinese pagoda from which a band of men wearing lederhosen plays music, while people gather round on the hundreds of picnic tables to enjoy lunch. Then began the Road Trip, First destination: Salzburg, Austria
Just two hours east (and a little south) of Munich is Mozart's home town and famous for The Sound of Music. Again, a very walkable city with loads of charm, the Salzach River running through the middle of it, gorgeous churches, and a mighty fortress overlooking it all. One hot tourist spot is Steingasse, a traffic-free road lined with shops and boutiques - and of course, gelato shops. Yummy! The characteristic old street signs hang above the shops and quaint old doorbells hang outside apartments.

The Salzburg Cathedral is one of the first Baroque style buildings north of the Alps. It was finished in 1628 and was beautiful! At the top of a hill overlooking the city is Hohensalzburg Fortress. Rather than taking the funicular (uphill mini-tram) to get to the entrance, Micah and I hiked the hundreds of steps and steep hill. The sight was worth it though - not just the seeing the fortress, but the view from the outer walls was wonderful!









Just before heading out of Salzburg, we went to see the Mirabell Gardens which were laid out in the 1700's. It was a lovely design and the flowers where in full bloom (in the distance, you can see the fortress overlooking the city).
This Pegasus statue may look familiar to you Sound of Music fans - it is the site of the scene where the kids all danced before lining up on the stairs (with Maria just beyond).
Next to the gardens is Dwarf Park, full of statues modeled after real dwarfs who served the prince-archbishop in the 1600's.
On the Road Again, Destination: Ruette, Austria
Salzburg to Ruette was about a 3 hour drive and so to "break up" the travel, we stopped in a town called Kitzbuhl - recommended by some close friends of ours who had stayed here during their travels to the area. It was a perfect spot for a lunch break! We grabbed some bratwurst to snack on a walked around the beautiful village town, munching away. It was siesta hour so most shops were closed, but we enjoyed the views anyway!After our lunch and stroll, we joined the locals sitting along benches in the shade on the main street, slurping up our gelato before it melted in the warm sunny weather! Arrival in Ruette, Austria - You won't find Ruette (pronounced Roy-teh) in any guidebooks, but Rick Steves (thanks for all of your suggestions, Rick!) recommends it as a homebase for sight-seeing, hiking, and visiting the Bavaria and Triol area. It is a quiet town with a few restaurants, loads of unique drinking fountains (flowing 24/7 with fresh mountain spring water), and doctor-recommended grade A air. Breathe that freshness and clear the smog from our London-filled lungs!
We didn't fall in love with Ruette right away, but after our 4 nights there, it certainly grew on us, and it was a fabulous location to sight-see and hike. In fact, we started the hike on the day we arrived. Nordic Walking is huge here and there were 6 Nordic trails near our hotel. Instead of doing just one of the loops, Micah and decided to combine a few of the trails together and ended up walking for over 5 hours on 3 or 4 of the different trails! What a day! It was a bit misty and sprinkling, but an amazing hike none-the-less.




See the trail we came down? It is behind the cow, weaving through the trees. Those cows were hilarious! We'd hear their bells ringing (can you see the massive bell round its neck?) long before we'd see the cows. I just loved them!
Fussen, Germany
Ruette is only about 15 minutes from the German boarder, and 5 minutes further into Germany puts you in Fussen, a low-key tourist village with easy access to some of "Mad" King Ludwig's castles (see below for more on castles!).We drove into Fussen on the evening prior to touring the castles in order to be familiar with the root and to find a fun new place for dinner!
Weiskirche - Down the road another 30 minutes from Fussen is the Weis Church - literally the "church in the meadow," which is what is used to be. Now there are a few other buildings around (a restaurant and small shop catering to tourists), but previously a small church was on this site. In 1738, a statue of Christ supposedly wept-empathizing with all of those who suffer. Pilgrims (no - not my family members, just people who wanted to see the statue and worship in the little church) came from far and wide. As more and more people came, it was evident a bigger church was required, so 2 top rococo architects were commissioned to build this church. It is now Germany's greatest rococo style church, possibly the greatest on the continent.


Hohenschwangau Castle:
This big yellow castle was Ludwig's boyhood home. The way it looks today is as it was in the 1830's.


As usual, no photos were allowed inside, but you can imagine the beauty be seeing the outside! I was actually amazed at how small the rooms inside seemed. From the outside the castle looks huge! The reason for this however, is because in between all of the walls are passage ways for the servants. Each room had a wood-burning stove and to keep the areas clean, as well as keep the servants from interrupting the king, they used the inner-wall passage ways!


Neushwanstein Castle:
There is a small village with shops and restaurants below both castles, and from it, you can gaze at the fairy-tale castle that inspired DisneyLand's castle design!
Most people choose to ride the idealic horse-drawn carriages up the steep hill, or even ride a small village bus, but not Micah and me. In keeping with our "hike everything" mentality, we hoofed it up the hill... almost overtaking one of the horse-drawn carriages!

As mentioned, this fairy tale castle was designed by "Mad" King Ludwig (he had loads more in design, but died at a fairly young age so all of the work on his castles were done when we passed). This particular one is dedicated to the opera writer, Richard Wagner. Almost every room is designed with an opera in mind - from doorknobs to chandeliers, paintings and tapestries. It all ties together. And if it isn't opera themed, then its definately swan-themed. "Schwanstein" means Rock of the Swan (and there is a lake below the castles that had swan swimming in it!), so swans were generously used throughout the design as well.
From one of the windows of Neuschwanstein, you can see this bridge with a massive waterfall below it. After our castle tour, we hiked up to the bridge... Another breath-taking view!

Back near Ruette, we took another hike, this time on a much sunnier day! We went up to the Ehrenberg Ruins - the fortress and castle, the first of which was built in the early 1200's.
A steep climb up, but it afforded beatiful views of Ruette and surrounding villages.
From the tallest fortress, we could look down on one of the lower castles...







This was one of our favourite hikes because the workout was hard, but so well worth it. We packed up our lunch of pepperoni sticks, cheese, crackers, and water and ate it on the ledge overlooking the city. In the picture below, you can see the bare-mountain top to the left of Micah - that's where the highest fortress was. Oberammergau, Austria:
After our long morning hike, we decided to take a late afternoon drive around the valley and over to a famous little village. This adorable, but tourist village is most known for its Passion play, put on only every 10 years (you'll have to wait till 2010 to go to the next one), and runs for 100 days straight in the summer.
With lovely surroundings and lovely half-timbered houses its worth a visit even without going to see the play. It is also known for its woodcarvings. Over half of the souvenier shops were handmade woodcarving pieces, from small ornaments to huge statues, mostly with Biblical themes.
Last Stop: Zurich, Switzerland
The drive from Ruette to Zurich took about 3 hours, but we did it all before lunch in order to return the car on time! Unfortunately, we ran into a bit more rain in Zurich, but with a lake nearby and Starbucks everywhere we were reminded of Seattle! That thought took the rainy-day blues away and brightened our day (my grande soy mocha and Micah's extra-hot white chocolate mocha helped quite a bit too!).
We had just a day here, but we enjoyed walking the traffic-free old part of town on cobblestone streets, fabulous churches with tall domes and iron-green spires, Swiss flags flown everywhere, and warm coffee.


Whew! I hope you made it all the way through that post without too much difficulty! I'm a bit exhausted now and think I'll go take a nap. :)
Coming Soon: My overnight trip to Dublin with my teacher-friend, Becky! (Two Becky's traveling together can be a bit confusing, but we sure had fun together!)

5 comments:

Eva said...

oooohhhhh! I LOVE your pictures. They are so beautiful. Thanks for sharing, loved it!

Anonymous said...

Looks like a fabulous trip! I didn't think the post was too long at all, in fact I wanted more! Thanks for taking the time to share it.

Jenny vick said...

ok...so i didn't get to look at it all...i'm at the library still :( at the computer (cuz mine is sick) and I"ve got less than a min to say I love you and miss you. I was talking to teree the other day about you guys coming home and i just started crying my eyes out in her kitchen because I miss you guys so much! can't wait..ok..kids fighting loudly in the library..got to go! love you ,jen

Maureen said...

Love the pictures. We also did the major hike up to that bridge over the waterfall (Neuschwanstein) and it was well worth it for the pictures!! That whole area is beautiful. and I love saying the town name Oberammergau. Our fondest memory of that city is that an American couple mistakenly thought we were Germans...we were so excited that our German language skills had tricked them. :)
Can't wait to hear what you thought of Dublin, we loved all the bridges.

Seeingred said...

It was so nice to see your travel log. A few years back when Erin was in your class, I visited my aunt, uncle and cousins in Munich. I loved traveling on the train into town I love the whole feeling there, and of course the pretzels!! I also spent a day in Oberammergau and visited the monastery there. Truly lovely! Thanks for reviving the great memories.
All the best from us here to you and Micah there!